Day 17-19 Vang Vieng

Vang vieng is a stop off small town on the way to Luang prabang . We broke up the bus journey - 4 hours to get here , 6 hours onward journey to see what it looked like when you weren't on an organised trip - I spent my 45th birthday here!

It's reputation is covered in this article which 'used to sum it up'

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2012/apr/07/vang-vieng-laos-party-town

After this article was published the party came to an abrupt halt. The Laos government banned most tubing companies. The riverside bars were closed down. And the results are sad to see. Wandering around town it's full of backpacker bars and guest houses offering western food ( of the fast food variety) - difficult to imagine you're in Laos. And is now more deserted as its lost its party animals. In my opinion a good idea to get rid of them because the bars were really tacky- like a bad seaside resort in England or Spain - and no real future. So it really looks sad and tired.

In the evening we went walking around town looking for somewhere to eat - of the 50 or so bars and restaurants , half had no one in them, there were only 2 with more than 10 people - as people often search a crowd it makes food choice difficult.

But the location , scenery and setting are gorgeous. It has overlooking limestone cliffs and caves, a gorgeous river setting, and the potential to attract the wealthier tourist interested in discovering the real Laos. Someone needs to invest and hopefully they will, signs in some areas are good with some better class resorts being built - still only £50 a night.

I'm not sure if I'm a travel snob but what's happened here isn't progress.

 

Happily after another 6 hour journey in a minivan we have now arrived in Luang Prabang. And happily it's gorgeous here and since we were last here it's thrived. It's tidier, busy, lots of tourists and locals and is booming. Brilliant.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Vientaine

Down to earth with a bump. After a night on the bouncy train 2 nights in our hotel. Laos service is renowned for being non- service and that's what we got. The people are very pleasant but service culture is not embedded. Our room was small and basic and the bed was as hard as they come but you could feel every spring.

 

Vientaine has changed a lot since we were here last. It's the smallest capital city in Asia and certainly the centre is very small. There are plenty of temples ( Wats) to see - which we didn't . Overexposure to Wats is a dangerous tourist disease which we are trying to avoid - when we visit Myanmar we will get our fill so until then...

The city is receiving significant investment , mainly from China - there are Chinese flags everywhere, and the river front areas are a bit gentrified , you can have a lovely stroll across the front, browse the night market and sip cold BeerLao - which we did. Food choices are much wider than before with any number of coffee shops, bakeries and western restaurants . Prices are higher than local cafes but its still pretty cheap to eat out.

A monk and a bike on the riverfront - my attempt at art.

Tuesdays trip was to the Budha Park which is situated 20km south of the city. It costs £20 each for an organised trip but around £3 to go by local bus. So local bus it was. Off to the bus station to catch no. 14 bus - a teeming mass of humanity living life- onto our bus. All of the big buses were donated by Japan. It's a bit of a theme in a poor country like this buses from Japan, the riverside park funded by South Korea , huge developments by China etc... Anyway bus 14 took us to the friendship bridge - funded by Thailand a bridge over the Mekong- and the bus driver kicked us out and told us to get on another smaller bus which was to take us the 4km to the park. The bus was basic and a bit knack erred and had no suspension. We found out why soon enough as the road was shite and full oh potholes- we bounced our way to the park , quite a funny experience.

Monks getting of our bus

I thought the Buddha park was a bit tatty but Ang loved it. Basically some guy was inspired to create a park full of statues inspired by Budhism. So the statues are a little over the top and there are loads of them. But it's different and is a tourist attraction- I don't think the authorities have got it though as the surroundings are basic, the road is full of potholes and they should put the prices up to western tourists.

Me looking at the statues

Wednesday morning we left Vientaine for the 100mile bus journey to Vang Vieng. Cost £3 each. They should put the fares up and give you a bit more comfort. There were 15 seats on our bus and 15 sets of luggage so it was cramped, but a good experience. Driving through the country is always entertaining. Oh and we stopped for fuel, ok, and to replace the back wheel, as you do. First of all they tried to jack it up with us in , then wisely decided to get us out.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Day 14/15 planes, trains and automobiles

It's Sunday. The end of the first part of our holiday. Wedding, honeymoon and luxury have ended. We've now got 4 weeks travelling on our own before we join a Group trip to Myanmar . So bye bye paradise, hello Laos. Holiday part 2!

The journey started by taxi we were picked up at Pavilions and taken to the airport in Phuket. It's classed as an International Airport but that's a bit of a loose description. It's really a tropical island airport with a bit of snobbery. Cup of coffee - ripped of tourists mk1 £3 a cup.

Anyway Bangkok Airways ( the boutique airline - really? What does that mean ) took us to Suvarnabumal Airport by aeroplane. Nothing eventful . On to the skytrain monorail into Bangkok and then to the underground which dropped us at Hua Lampong railway station. Both modern spacious and empty. Bangkok is spending money on its infrastructure but the roads are still winning - they are jam packed and polluted.

The crowded foyer at the station

Time to kill. Drop off the baggage at left luggage - time to be ripped off mil 2 £5 for 4 hours- and off we set off to walk into town to kill some time and see Bangkok centre for the last time. We got food for the train. The walk wasn't through the most salubrious area so as it was now dark and wet and probably dangerous time for tuk tuk to the station, who spent time trying to avoid the puddles which had formed. The tuk tuk was lovely, bright shiny and lit by neons - the drivers pride and joy

Get on the sleeper train for the overnight to Nong Khai on the Laos border. The carriage was not too bad, private 2 berth with a/c for £50. Ordered breakfast and a drink and settled down for a bouncy nights sleep - make that slow, noisy and bouncy fitful sleep. The train managed the 400 mile journey in 14 hours - virgin pendeleno it is not. Around comes the cabin lady to fleece the tourists again - £11 for the food , 4 dry rounds of 'toast '.

Get to Nong Khai and pass through passport control and onto the slow train into Laos. The train goes over the friendship bridge over the Mekong ( paid for by the Thais). And I mean straight down the middle of the road.. The train stops 3km over the river/ border- about 15 kms from Vientaine . And that's the only railway line in Laos! Isn't that amazing, no trains, pretty crappy roads in most areas and a few airports. Really difficult to grow your economy when you can't move goods or people around easily.

 

Thalang stain in Laos in the middle of nowhere - but it's the only 1 they have.

Finally shared taxi into Vientaine to a drop off and a walk to the hotel.

Anyway the train sleep was bad, and our hotel is iffy so we really know we are in holiday mode 2 !,

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

Day 9 - 14

So after the wedding head for 5 days of luxury. It got me thinking about hotel selection. We are paying the same rate for both the Dusit , our last hotel and here - around £400 a night. At the Dusit we were in the most expensive rooms , 90% were around £150 a night. Here we are paying the average - some rooms a little cheaper and some higher. It's also very exclusive here - openly 60 private villas. Although the service at the Dusit was excellent - couldn't fault it - here it is amazing. Lots of lovely little touches, lots of attentive staff, excellent food. So is it like houses, you buy in the best location you can ie the cheaper rooms in the best hotel.

Anyway this is the Pavilions Phuket - it's fabulous.

Our living room

The view from the bedroom

Our private infinity pool and deck. (Please explain to June why its an infinity pool).

A couple of the nice touches:

Our bath!

Not posting much between now and Sunday. We are spending the days lounging around, eating, drinking, reading and sleeping.

Congratulations to Matt and Lucy and new arrival Finlay. Lucy held on so that the new arrival didn't eclipse our wedding day! But finally a happy delivery on Wednesday. Never sure why Matt gets the congratulations- he was only involved for 20 or 30 seconds , Lucy has 9 months plus 18 hours of the hard work. :-)

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

La Amore

So after the wedding and photos we headed back to the hotel for 'afternoon tea'. And it rained, rained and rained again. The Lake District would have been proud.

We had booked a La Amoretti wedding meal in the beach but were worried that we would have had a weather cancellation. Happily the rain stopped around 5 and after pre dinner cocktails away we went to our table

We had chosen a Thai meal. It was fantastic food, although too much. Aperitif, starter , fish, 3 main courses, selection of desserts, chocolates, tea and wine. Absolutely gorgeous food.

All the way through we had our own cheesy music. Romantic songs covered by a 'Thai pub singer'. But the effort was appreciated.

And afterwards back to the room where the hotel had decorated the bed. A lovely day to remember.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Day 8 - Wedding Day

Day 8 - Wedding Day

It's official and legal. I have a Cumbrian Thai Wife. And to honour the occasion, in true Lakeland style, it rained !!

Ang had put me off the scent of her dress , so I was quite surprised and pleased with her choice of a lovely fifties number.

We were collected from our room at 12:30 by Crystal , who explained what was going to happen. We were taken to a private ferry and delivered to the canal village. A brief toilet stop for Ang whose contact lens had ripped.

We were then accompanied to the church by a Thai long drum procession which involved 4 female thai dancers leading us , followed by 6 male Thai drummers beating drums and cymbals. ( it has just started raining at this point but only a little).

We then entered the chapel where we were greeted by the Amphur and 5 other Thai people ( witnesses and water blessings). The ceremony was introduced - very much like an English ceremony I.e. we are gathered here to enter into the holy union of marriage...

Then the 3 monks entered and prayed for us for 5-10 minutes. A very peaceful time to reflect on marriage, our family and friends who are at home, and also others who were with us - Ang's brother John and my dear dad.

After this we had garlands to bless us, two circular garlands around our heads which were tied to symbolise how we were now joined but individual.

in our room with our cards and gifts

After this we had a water blessing . All of those present symbolically poured water over our hands. Thai's believe this will cool any anger and jealousy in our marriage.

Finally the monks blessed us with anointing by water, which involved 'flicking water at us from their seats whilst chanting blessings'. We then presented each monk with gifts and they left.

We were then pronounced husband & wife, I gave Ang her ring, kissed my new wife and we signed the register .

A lovely happy occasion. We were both nervous at first but the setting and service were all we would want.

Cutting the cake in our room

Ang's bouquet - for any interested ladies!

We are getting the official photos later - ill post on my Flickr site. But for now I've attached some we took

Mr & Mrs.

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

Day 7 Sunday - pre wedding day

Tomorrow is the most important day of our lives that I don't think me or Ang ever expected when we met 4.5 years ago in Bangkok. And it does feel a little strange as we don't know what to expect - a) not being married before and b) never having been to a 'foreign wedding' before.

So the plan

We are having a Buddhist blessing of our marriage. In Thailand the actual marriage occurs when you both stand in front of the Amphur (Registrar) and sign the register. So the Buddhist , Christian or otherwise ceremonies are extra but not 'the legal bit'. Once you have the marriage certificate you are legally married in the uk. It's advisable to get the certificate translated into English and registered in the UK - which we are doing.

We will be picked up from our room at 12:15 our time (7 hours ahead if the uk) and taken by Ferry across the lagoon to canal village

As you can see the Chapel sits on a lagoon in a quiet area of the resort. We will then be given a long drum procession by 3 monks to the chapel - it's about 200m.

In the chapel the monks will carry out 3 different blessings and pray for us. We will then give them a gift and they will leave. Then we will do the legal bits and put on the wedding ring ( Ang has one I don't).

You can see it will be quite big for the 6 of us

That's it - a very happy husband and wife.

Then back to the hotel prior to our evening meal on the beach.

Hopefully I'll post some photos tomorrow or Tuesday.

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

Day 6 - Phuket

Day 6 - Phuket - Dusit Laguna Phuket

Arrived here at 7 pm last night (Friday) on the weekend shuttle to the normal chaos of Asian airports. You always seem to play a game getting a taxi - barter or buy a ticket from the 'taxi desk' and then wonder where the taxi is . Had a pleasant journey , 25 mins, with a ManU taxi driver - they are everywhere!

The hotel is as luxurious as it should be . Our suite is a bit excessive. you only get married once but I still think about haves and have nots. It's a typical American resort a wide choice of restaurants, pools , bars, huge huge reception (why?) our room :

Sunset from the room is lovely:

We have a room facing west, from whence the tsunami came. It's really lovely but you can understand why it made such a mess when it hit

Spent today being resort tourists, lazing by the sea, drinking the free cocktails and avoiding the sun as much as I can - boy is it hot!

Tomorrow much of the same I think. We have everything in order for the wedding and have booked a 'La Amore' meal to finish of the day.

More tomorrow

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

Day 5 - Cont

A slight problem with blogger - last post ended too soon.

Anyway the upshot is we're all done . All forms signed, translated, stamped and sitting with the Amphur in Phuket . So just the getting married but to come.

Written on an iPad, sitting in Starbucks, listening to 'white Christmas' . Globalisation - is it a good thing #discuss

Day 5 - leaving Bangkok

Who said the British like queuing? Isnt't it something you have to do and that's it. Or is it because we usually queue in the cold and that's never to bad.  Queuing in hot sweltering humid conditions isn't fun.

And that's what we've been doing this week. Oh and greasing palms with silver of course. Once you get involved with officialdom in developing countries money has to pass over. I suppose it's the same in the uk except its easier to collect income tax and VAT . If you can't easily collect those - given unsophisticated sales systems then whenever you need to register something or license something then the greasy palm of the government is extended to have their share

So Monday off to the British Embassy to get the 'marriage affirmation' stamped. Shut! They only work mornings. Back at 8am Tuesday . Sit down in a queue, take a ticket, go to a window, take another ticket, get a stamp and hand over the £130.  Off to the translators to get it into Thai- another £20 please.

Then a minor detour to the Myanmar embassy for a visa. The complication here is they only have a 3 month life from issue - so we had to get it now so that it remained valid in Jan when we come back. As you can imagine the embassy is pretty basic. And loads of backpackers queuing to get visas. So 

• Get the form

• Realise you need passport photocopy
• Leave embassy and walk down road to local entrepreneur who has everything you need set up. Literally , he has photocopier, glue stick to attach photo to form, paper clips, camera if you don't have photos and tables to write on. And the cost ? 12 p !!!  #putthepricesup
• Back to the embassy
• Queue up to get your number
• Sit down and wait for your turn - 1 hour
• Go to new window - 2 working days to process - 'but I need my passport ' . Same day service 2x the price. Ok - £50
• Hence #putthepricesup Mr Entrepreneur - it's £50 for the visa and 12p to you
• Wait for 3 hours
• Get visa

Wednesday

• Pick up translated affirmation then train and taxi to Thai Ministry of Foreign Affairs. About 12km out of town
• Queue up for form
• Fill in
• Queue up for number
• Go into room to get signatures
• Queue at kiosk to pay fee - £10 each please. Come back in 2 days. But I need it sooner and it cost me to get out here. Ok £20 each to get it back today. Come back in 3 hours
• Loiter in canteen for 3 hours - NOTE great cheap food although guesswork as no English spoken
• Pick up stamped forms

Thursday

Ask hotel to scan forms and email to wedding organiser.  'No problem sir. I'll do that now and it's free! NOTE the lack of officialdom and the cost of this lack of involvement. 

Choice - day 1

It started me thinking yesterday.  We went to the Bickerton Poacher for lunch with Rich and Fee for a pre wedding lunch. We were presented with the menu AND a Pie menu.  A quick  look at the pie menu , already overloaded the senses . I could have had 4 or 5 of them. So I didn't even look at the other menu. Why would you - then you would be missing out on 20 or so possible meals instead of just the 4 rejected pies. 

And of course if you do make the wrong choice and have a slightly disappointing 'pie' then the what ifs kick in.

Which brings me to Emirates. Haven't flown with them for 4 years. In my day you had 4 or 5 movies. Ang and I eagerly looked for the list this time and ' choice overload'...  You could pick any 1 of 60 current movies, hundreds of classic films plus whole sets of tvs shows - box sets of whole shows plus albums , games.  Bonkers

I love living in the world of choice and feel very grateful that I am one of those who can make choices. But if its gone exponential in the last 4 years what next...  Thoughts on a postcard - probably a good MBA project for you Matt.

Oh and 'Three Men and a Baby' isn't an Emirates classic Shell!

And neither is 'Under Siege 2' Pete!

Anyway bumpily and safely arrived in Dubai

Onwards

I've been here before.

Five years ago I set off to avoid our lovely winters and to see South East Asia and Australia.  If you've forgotten here is the story.

http://avoidingwinter.blogspot.co.uk/

I fell in love with Cambodia and Laos. And I fell in love with a Cumbrian.  So she became my girlfriend, then my fiancee and now we're off to Thailand  to get married - so she'll be my 'cumbrianthaibride'.

You probably won't be surprised at the number of people who ask me or Ang - oh is she Thai, 'is he Thai'.  I'm sure its easier for Ang as my questions also extend to 'Is she a lady boy questions'..

Rather than simply pop over to Thailand , get married and come back, we're then off to Laos, Northern Thailand, Cambodia and Myanmar over Christmas and the New year.  A short stop off in Dubai on the way back and home late January.

So here I'll post some photos, and keep my diary of the trip.  If you are interested read on..